MY FIRST TEN DAYS IN COLOMBIA

The distance from my home country Norway to Colombia is considerable, not only in kilometres but even more so when it comes to culture, politics, how people organize their daily life as well as all kinds of practical activities, transportation etc. It´s a pretty steep learning curve, but thanks to nice helpful people who always seems to be there when I need them, I manage to get around quite well and step by step acquire new knowledge about this fascinating country.

So far I´ve experienced colourful historic Cartagena, Tourist destination Santa Marta and my first morning walk here in Medellin where I arrived late yesterday afternoon. The first ten days has been a mixed bag in many ways, and I have to add it´s impossible to stay untouched by many of the things I´ve seen.

The main keyword so far has to be “contrasts”. Beautiful landscapes and colourful historical buildings mixed with striking poverty, slums and thousands of street vendors trying to survive on marginal sales of street food, souvenirs sunglasses and massage services. 

Colombia’s Ombudsman’s Office informed about a 14% increase in child deaths due to starvation or related illnesses in march (source Colombia reports), but the report has largely been ignored by authorities. According to the government’s human rights office, 162 children under five died of starvation and associated causes of death between January 1 and September 8 this year.

Child mortality is highest in the north of Colombia, particularly in the province of La Guajira, where national soft drink giant Postobon allegedly used children suffering food and water shortages as lab rats to test a new drink (source Colombia Reports).

In 2015, the Ombudsman’s Office warned that the rampant corruption was causing a humanitarian crisis in the country’s most northern province.

A quite typical 1 - 2room family home by the road in a very poor area.

The Venezuela crises.

Assisted by my new friend Leonardo, who works as a waiter in my preferred restaurant in Santa Marta, I was also able to make a short interview with my first Venezuelan refugee “informant”, Olga (29). Olga left Venezuela from her hometown not so far from the Venezuela/Colombian border over the Simon Bolivar Bridge to Cucuta in where more than 1,2 million refugees have arrived so far.

Olga told me she had to leave her home and family with her nine year old son, when it became impossible to survive on her income as a hair dresser. In Santa Marta she also works as a hair dresser, though her monthly income is hardly enough to survive here either. She earns about 400 000 Colombian pesos COP a month (Ca. 1200 NOK), far below the Colombian minimum wage which is 700 000 COP pr. month. Half he income goes to pay for her rented room.

Olga

More about the Venezuelan crises and the refugees comes on this blog in few weeks. Next up though is a post about the amazing transformation of Medellin from drug-war-zone to bussling business and tourist destination.