Friday, 12 January 2018

ISTANBUL

Five days in Istanbul - A colourful adventure with a taste

After travelling through Roumania and staying in Bucharest for a while, the plan was to take a little "holiday" at the Black Sea and make a slow crossing through southern Bulgaria, northern Greece and on to Macedonia and Albania. The Black Sea and Bulgaria, however, did not offer the opportunities I was looking for, and on the map the distance to the Turkish border was very short and Istanbul, well, not more than a day trip away.
Both the latest news from Turkey and, in particular, the books of authors such as Orphan Pamuk (Black Book) and Elif Shafak (The Bastard of Istanbul) were on my mind blending with an old dream of visiting this famous city, the gateway between Europe and Asia, so full of mystery and history. With this blend of adventurous and gloomy thoughts filling my head, an early morning in mid-October I cross the Bulgarian-Turkish border south-west of Malko Tarnovo in Bulgaria and into Turkey, with a course for Istanbul. The border crossing goes surprisingly well. Travel information from the Norwegian foreign office emphasised that a visa must be sought and arranged before entering, and given the strained relationship with the country's western allies at the moment, I fear the worst. On the border there is minimal queue and with a few Euro less in my pocket I have crossed the border with a fresh visa and I am well on my way to Istanbul.

(Click on the Images to see larger versions and click again on the images to scroll)

Recent events, attacks against Kurdish villages, warfare in Iraq and Syria, as well as the imprisonment of political activists, journalists and others after the failed military coup in July 2016, gives a gloomy backdrop and makes it hard if not impossible to have a romantic tourist experience in Istanbul for anyone with a political mind like mine. However during this short visit  opportunities to dig deep inside the political landscape will be rather limited.

Before I neither get the a chance to be overwhelmed nor feeling provoked, I spend more than half a day fighting through a traffic labyrinth, which, in addition to confusing everything called GPS, is generous with traffic jams and chaos in claustrophobic, exhausted tunnels. I have spent the night just some 20 miles north of the city to enter early to get the most time possible for city walking this first day. It will prove to be challenging. I have set the course on the GPS towards a part of the city where it´s supposed to be lots of cheap hotels. I´m headed along highways, onto the smaller roads, into narrow alleys and then stop! Three times I have to turn around when I think I'm approaching my goal. Then I finally see a sign for the district I'm heading to, but first I am guided into a tunnel (f..GPS) under the city centre. Traffic stagnates, the queue is slowing down and then it`s a full stop. Whistling, shouting and cars pushing on the road-cage, mopeds and motorcycles on all sides, the car horns that increase into an eardeafening crescendo. It takes half an hour, an hour and so ... slowly we move forward and thank God out of the tunnel. On the next attempt, I decide to attack the city from another direction and follow the Bosporus Strait northwards, which proves to be a smart move. Finally in the city centre and not too far from the old town, I stop outside the first hotel where I can find parking space for my camper. The hotel, by name "Lasagrada" turns out to be way above my budget, however, available parking and friendly service removes any desire to resume my Istanbul traffic nightmare.

Hagia Sofia Mosque
It`s already dark when I have unpacked and getting ready to enter the city streets. I follow Istikal road through Taksim in the direction of the old town. At Besiktas stadium and home arena, I meet two young men who are curious about who I am and where I am going. We walk together towards the sea while we chatter. Reaching at the Bosphorus Strait and Tophane Fountain we have become friends. Oner (24) and Murat (34) belong to the Turkish minority Alevi. They invite me for a coffee and we find a table at the seafront at one of the many restaurants along the Bosphorus. Oner and Murat have strong opinions about many things. They tell me that discrimination and racism are a part of everyday life and the Turkish majority's treatment of minorities like the Alevis.

Oner and Murat
From Oner and Murat and information on the internet (Minority rights group international - http://minorityrights.org/minorities/alevis/ ) I learn that: Alevis are the largest religious minority in Turkey. «Technically" they are  Shia, yet they follow a fundamentally different interpretation of Islam than the Shi’a. They also differ considerably from the Sunni Muslim majority in their practise and interpretation of Islam. Some estimates says that Alevis are around 11.4 per cent of the population others says as much as 33 per cent. People of Turkish and Kurdish ethnic origin are the largest Alevi groups. Alevis claim the Koran has both an open and a hidden meaning. There are progressive levels of understanding from obedience to shari’a Islam through tarika (brotherhood) to ma’rifa (mystical understanding of God) and ultimately to hakkika (immanent experience of divine reality). Tension between the Sunni rightists and Alevi leftists grew from the 1970s. Alevis moved from mountainous or unproductive land to seek work in predominantly Sunni towns which was a major catalyst in Sunni–Alevi tensions. Alevis harassed by Sunnis have seldom sought redress either from the police or the law courts since they believe the latter to be deeply prejudiced against them. In 1978 well over 100 Alevis were massacred in Maras by members of the extreme right National Action Party. In July 1993, 67 Alevis were killed in Sivas at the climax to the eight – hour siege of a hotel by Sunnis, while the police stood by. In March 1995 more than 20 Alevis were killed by vigilantes and police in Istanbul. Alevis continue to suffer discrimination on a number of levels. Alevi cemevis (places of gathering) have no legal status as places of worship. In 2008, 200,000 Alevis rallied on the streets of Istanbul to protest against government policies and demand equal rights. In 2009 the government launched a series of workshops with Alevi groups to try and address their concerns. But these dialogue meetings did not lead to anything specific.

Restaurant with some stylish interior.
During the next five days I share several cops of coffee, glasses of green tea and even some beers with mostly people from minority and immigrant origin. Kurds, Palestinians, some Africans. And even though people don´t speak freely in a meeting with a foreigner they do not know, stories about discrimination and a society where tension between ethnic minorities and the Turkish majority are not uncommon and in fact increasing. For some reason my limited attempts to start a conversation with native Turks doesn't`t not feel easy. Answers are short if any. Turning away and looking in another direction is answer clear enough.

For five days I walk the streets of Istanbul. The number of western tourists are rather limited. Bomb  blasts and other alarming news from around the country has not been to the tourist industries advantage. My own visit is too short to reach the hidden secrets and get under the surface of this fascinating city, which in many ways feels just like any other big bustling metropolis. An adventure it`s become never the less, though with a taste. I think I will be back some day.

And a P.S.: At the time of writing this lines (January 2018) I have also read NRK journalist Sissel Wolds latest correspondent letter from Turkey, published January 6th 2018 here: 


Even though it`s just only a short letter, what SW writes give some perspectives for a better understanding of  how Turks may see themselves in relation to the world.… And thankfully, I went to Istanbul before the catastrophic military exercise in Norway where the Turks were pointed out as the enemy…

Enjoy the images (and remember click to view larger versions) and you will see some of the the many nice places I visited during my stay, though without the all the tastes, the sounds, and the warm breeze from the Bosporus Strait...

View from the old city towards Golden Horn and Bosporus
Friendly smiles at the metro line
Fishing from piers and bridges is a popular activity for the men in Istanbul, especially on Sundays
Style and dress code isn´t that much different from any other big European city, but "Istanbul is not the true face of Turkey" according to some of the people i talked to. 







The old market is just amazing and on of the largest of its kind in the world
















Wednesday, 8 November 2017

Ceauşescu’s Children

"Ceausescu's children"

and the Roumanian child protection services

This blog post took a bit longer and became harder to write than I thought. It is due neither to writer’s block nor lack of motivation, but rather all the thoughts which starts streaming through my mind when I try to attach something to the screen. To involve in poverty, social distress, and families and people in vulnerable situations, often includes meeting children who is facing the consequences of totally mistaken political experiments and reactionary, dysfunctional power structures, apparently without any ability or willingness to respond to the needs of the most vulnerable of the nation's inhabitants.

For most of us, the lives and destiny of these children are a well-displaced reality, which is far below in the shadow of our consciousness, and is not picked up unless we choose to expose ourselves to the discomfort. Actually, I think writing about the poor vulnerable children should be completely redundant. It should be obvious that the lack of security, care and love and the absence of a minimum of material resources such as food, clothing and shelter for all children was at the top of the political priority list and was continuous in the media's spotlight when and where this is not the reality. But sadly, that's not how it is.




The headline of this blogpost I have borrowed from an article in The Guardian, written by Wendell Steavenson and published on December 10, 2014. Wendell, like me, wanted to find out to what extent the situation of children under public care in Roumania had changed to the better since the disclosure of the grotesque conditions in Romanian orphanages spread in Western media in 1989 and early 90's. Many of you may also remember the pictures of the "sewage children" who lived in the underground tunnels of Bucharest published in spring and summer 2014.


See Massimo Branca's pictures here or the video made by Paraic O'Brien and Jim Wickens in 2014 for Channel 4 here.


Wendell Steavenson's article is the story of the tragic consequences of a political idea about the excellence of the Communist State as a caregiver. Combined with poverty and social structures that were collapsing, the children had become the losers. The article is also a portrait of a young man, Vişinel Balan, with a unique life story. The story about Vişinel, who himself grew up in one of Roumania's state orphanages, provides an insight into the life of one of these abandoned children, while also giving a glimpse of hope being an example that the impossible some times can be possible.


When Vişinel Balan was two months old he was left in a state infant centre. The year was 1987. When he was eight years old, Vişinel was later moved to a Placement Centre in Comănești. The life in the centre was extremely hard for the little boy. He was beaten by the older kids and also by some of the caretakers. A year later he ran off to live at a railway station. After running away from the placement centre, Vişinel was rescued and taken to one of the smaller homes that began to replace the giant placement centres in the 90s. He did not know anything about his family until he was 11. Two of his older brothers came to the same centre as he and told him that he had other brothers and sisters and that he had parents too. His brothers took him to see his parents and he learned that he was the last of 13 children. His father was violent was beating his mother. Four of their children died and the rest were placed in state institutions like Vişinel.


Vişinel is now 30 and in some miraculous way and by hard work he has got a master degree in both law and social work as well as a a theatre degree. He has worked as a project coordinator for the Ministry of Youth and Sport, as a drama teacher at a school for gifted children and as a consultant for Saatchi & Saatchi in Roumania before he got his current job in the parliament. He is also the co-founder of the NGO "Drawing Your Own Future" that works with children in Romania’s child-protection system.


To give some background information about how the Roumania child protection system evolved during and after the communist era, I share some of Wendel Steavensons article in this blogpost: (I’ve shortened a little):

"When he came to power in 1966, Ceaușescu had grand plans for Roumania. The country had industrialised late, after the second world war, and its birthrate was low. Ceaușescu borrowed the 1930s Stalinist dogma that population growth would fuel economic growth and fused this idea with the conservatism of his rural childhood. In the first year of his rule, his government issued Decree 770, which outlawed abortion for women under 40 with fewer than four children. "The foetus is the property of the entire society," Ceaușescu announced. "Anyone who avoids having children is a deserter who abandons the laws of national continuity." 

The birth rate soon doubled, but then the rate of increase slowed as Romanian women resorted to homemade illegal abortions, often with catastrophic results. In 1977 all childless persons, regardless of sex or martial status, were made to pay an additional monthly tax. In the 1980s condoms and the pill, although prohibitively expensive, began to become available in Romania – so they were banned altogether. Motherhood became a state duty. The system was ruthlessly enforced by the secret police, the securitate. Doctors who performed abortions were imprisoned, women were examined every three months in their workplaces for signs of pregnancy. If they were found to be pregnant and didn’t subsequently give birth, they could face prosecution. Fertility had become an instrument of state control. 

This policy, coupled with Romania’s poverty, meant that more and more unwanted children were abandoned to state care. No one knows how many. Estimates for the number of children in orphanages in 1989 start at 100,000 and go up from there. Since the second world war, there had been a system of state institutions for children. But after 1982, when Ceaușescu redirected most of the budget to paying off the national debt, the economy tanked and conditions in the orphanages suffered. 

When the world press discovered Ceaușescu’s archipelago of orphanages and the appalling images went around the world: disabled children with bone-stick limbs tied to their beds, cross-eyed toddlers who couldn’t walk, malnourished babies left unattended in cribs with metal bars, little corpses stacked in basements. The pictures shocked Romanians as much as they did the rest of the world; institutionalised children were generally kept away from the general population. 

"Since the fall of Ceauşescu, Roumania has come a long way in overhauling its child protection system. As Sandie Blanchet, the Unicef representative in Roumania, told me: "The ideology under Ceaușescu’s regime was that the state was better than the family. Nobody is saying that now." Today only a third of Romania’s children in the state system are housed in residential homes maintained by the state. Half of these are in what are known as "family-type" homes with five or six kids growing up together. The other half are in placement centres, larger institutional buildings that usually house between 30 and 100 kids. However, the majority of Romanian children in the state system are in foster care – Romanian foster parents are paid a salary from the state, rather than being subsidised volunteers as they are in western European countries – or placed with extended family. The government has made a public commitment to close all the remaining placement centres – roughly 170 – by 2020. But this progress conceals an ongoing problem; just as in Ceauşescu’s time, most of these children are not orphans, they are in fact "separated from their parents". The number of Romanian children separated from their parents has fallen from an estimated 100,000 in 1990 to some 60,000 today. But the birth rate has also steeply declined, which means that the proportion of Romania’s children in state care has remained stubbornly high. Things have improved little since the 1990s. And parents are still abandoning their children, largely it turns out, for the same reason as in previous decades: poverty."

During the day I more or less get Wendell Stevenson’s brief summary of how the policy of the Romanian child protection system has changed confirmed, though there are some quite alarming numbers that extends the picture as we shall see.


Entering a big, unknown city with more than 2 million inhabitants, without a guide, an appointment or some clear plan for what I'm actually going to do here is normally a bad idea. I have stayed at a 24-hour combined gas station and bar by the north-eastern highway and main entry to Bucharest to have as much time and daylight as possible to reach some possible contacts for information about the situation for some of Romania’s most vulnerable children.


Wendel Steavenson's article provided me a link to Vişinel Balan's NGO for street children and a website that states the organisation's visit address. Since Vişinel was at the top of my current list of possible contacts and informants, I take the chance just showing up at the address, hoping to meet someone who can help me further. My GPS shows it is not that far from the place I have stayed for the night and as often before, I am greeted by helpful people who do what they can for a traveller on the quest to know the life and country they live in.


When I finally get to the adress I've got, it appears that neither Vişinel nor his organisation stay here anymore. I push the doorbell, the door opens and I'm met by a young woman with a little child on her arm. I ask for Vişinel Balan and explain that I have found this address on his website.


The young woman does not speak much English, but understands what and who I am searching for and thankfully she knows Vişinel. She asks me to come in while she finds a phone and starts to call. After a couple of attempts, she gets in touch with someone and hands me the phone. "Hello, it's Vişinel Balan," says a voice in the phone. I apologise for coming unannounced, and explains that it's due to the fact that my trip has been a little unpredictable. "No, problem" says the voice on the phone, but you must come to the parliament building in the city centre. I'm working there now and do not live in the apartment at the old address anymore ". He promises to receive me as soon as I arrive at the parliament, and says I can just sign in at the parliament building entrance. It sounds simple enough and since the parliament building is a landmark in the city centre, my GPS has no trouble guiding me where I am going. The security guards at the entrance to the parking lot by the parliament building look a bit dubious at my little camper, but let me in when I have declared my errand and who to visit.




After reaching the right entrance, (not that easy since the Roumanian parliament building is the world's largest of it’s kind) and through the compulsory registration and security check, I'm met by a smiling young man reaching out his hand to welcome me. 


I repeat why I have come and how I found him. He welcomes me once again and explains that he has some a few things to finish for the deputy, but than he’ll have the rest of the day at my disposal. He says that the Deputy would like to see me and have invited me for lunch. I am left almost speechless by the way I am met just by taking a random phone call early in the morning, in a country where my notions about the political system have not just been a concept of flexibility and openness. But for Vişinel and his boss it still seems to be the case. As it turns out that he has a new job as adviser at the deputy chamber in the Romanian Parliament. He is working for a new political party, the USR (Union Save Romania) in the secretariat of deputy Iulian Bulai (29). Iulian has lived and studied (art) for 9 years in Norway and is married to the Norwegian NRK journalist Eva Marie Bulai. 


Since it is already mid-day when I finally get checked in to the Parliament, we meet for lunch shortly after my arrival. We meet Iulian, a young man with an open, friendly face, at the parliament restaurant. He speaks fluent Norwegian, almost without accent. During our lunch we have an interesting, and to me a very informative conversation. Iulian states that the USR, the party he represents, is an alternative to the existing political parties (and the governing social democratic party), which largely constitute a continuation of existing power structures and, to a rather limited extent, have shown the ability to develop the Romanian society after the revolution. USR got 8,9% of the votes in the last election a year ago (not bad for a party only one year old) and was represented in Parliament for the first time ever with 13 seats in the senate and 30 in deputy chamber. The two most important issues for USR are the fight against corruption and for protecting the environment. The party can be considered liberal and placed in the centre of the a right/left political landscape. What separates the USR party from the bunch, is primarily that it’s representatives are all coming from the outside of the present power structures. Except for their anti corruption campaign and radical environment protection program though, I have a hard time seeing what solutions they offer for the society, the economy and for the children. But that's me. 


After lunch, I sit down with Vişinel to learn more about the situation and development of the Romanian child protection system. We talk about Wendell Steavenson’s article and Vişinel confirms her presentation of the orphanage-history, the child protection system and the story about his life. He tells me he chose to work in the political system and in the parliament hoping his experience and knowledge could be used to improve the child protection system and get more political attention to the abandoned children.


In the three years that has passed since the article in the Guardian not so much has changed, neither the numbers of abandoned children, children under child protection or the number of street children. Still there are around 5000 street children in Bucharest, many living in the tunnels under the city. Only 400 are rescued from the streets every year, meaning a lot of children still live and die in the tunnels 18 years after the revolution.  


Vişinel has many ideas about possible changes to improve in the child protection system and how to mobilise the churches (Romania has 30 000 churches with a strong position in most communities), local authorities and the child protection system. However, when I ask him to what extent his ideas and suggestions are supported by the USR party or any government authorities, the answer is negative.


Before we leave the parliament I'm taken on a guided tour inside the enormous building. It is still a symbol of an era and Nicolae Ceausescu’s attempt prove to the world how wealthy, prosperous and powerful he and his Socialist Republic of Romania had grown. The building is both impressive and bit disgusting with it’s size and luxurious interiors, knowing it’s history and it’s creator. At least it gives some comfort knowing it can be used as a functional administrative centre for the people’s representatives.



It's become early afternoon when we are leaving the Parliament for a visit to a private orphanage in one of the Bucharest suburbs. Visiting a state orphanage is impossible, Vişinel has explained, even for him because the authorities do not want more negative publicity than they already have, and many sees him as a a trouble maker. But not all orphanages are owned by state and Vişinel wants to take me to a privat NGO/Orphanage by the name Acasa. After struggling through the Bucharest afternoon traffic in my camper for a while, trying to keep up with the left – right – left - straight orders from my guide, we finally reaches a school-like building with an iron gate and a security guard. Vişinel explains that the area is one of the least secure in the city so a security guard is absolutely necessary. However, the security company provides this service for free to support to the organisation and orphanage.


We enter an area with several buildings and are met by Alin Manole, a tall, smiling man with a fatherly warmth in his eyes. A man I immediately like. We are expected since Vişinel has called him earlier in the day, and I tell him my errand and why I wanted to visit the orphanage. Alin tells me I’m very welcome and take me to see the houses and meet some of the children. 




On a shelf inside the first building we enter, I discover a Norwegian flag and stop to ask what is the link to Norway. Alin tells me the Norwegian NGO, "Europa i fokus" and Frantz Johansen and later his son Leon (when Frantz passed away in 2014) has been involved in Acasa since the start in 1999. Acasa (And the NGO behind it – "Metropolis Philantropic Foundation) today has several sponsors, and is also partly funded by the government. The Norwegian support however is important and stands out because it is always timely and dependable, Alin says.


Since day one, when the Acasa orphanage was established in a small rented house I Bucharest in December 2004, the foundation has given shelter, care and protection to more than 685 children. Their goal is to "help children who don’t have a chance to live in a loving family, who don’t have a place they can call home.


Most of the children comes to the centre from the state’s child protection system. Some comes from families who cannot take care of their children anymore and many are street children. About 60% are Roma/gypsies.


The Acasa foundation is also giving family support and is running a day care centre for children who are still living with their parents, but the residential center (orphanage) are their main facility.


The center can raise children aged 6 to 18. Children who work hard to get an education, a job or wants to attend university can stay until they are 26. The center can accommodate 39 children. Each child have an individual intervention plan aiming to mobilise the child’s potential and is optimised for their specific needs. Education is the most important for all the children and the center works in close collaboration with school no. 153, which is located close to the center.


Alin explains the center philosophy, the activity programs and the professional guidelines for the interaction between the staff and the children. The staff is a mix of professional social workers, psychologists and staff member without a professional background but with a common engagement in helping the children. Some of the children brought to the center are severely traumatised from being neglected, from violence or sexual abuse and are in need of therapeutic treatment which is provided by the psychologists or specialists utside the center if needed. 


In short, this center seems to be extremely well organised and facilitated to meet the needs of it’s target group. However, what touches me most is not the plans, the activities and programs, but rather the whole atmosphere at the center. Most professionals, whether in Roumania or any other country, will agree that growing up in an institution is not ideal for most children. However for some it is the only solution, and what is crucial is how the institution manages to establish the relations, and trust between the staff and the children. In Acasa I experienced a certain tranquillity, respectful communication, and friendliness in all the interaction, that is hard to describe. I believe Acasa has managed to recruit staff that really care for the children and give them the love and affection only loving parents normally can provide. I think this is also at least be some of the explanation why Acasa has never experienced any runaways among the children, according to Alin, and that more than 90% of the children grows up in the centre and stays there till they enter adulthood.


During my short visit to Acasa this afternoon I also get a chance to talk with some of the children.  Gabi (14) was 5 when he came to Acasa. He loves computers and dreams about becoming a computer engineer.


Larisa (18) came to Acasa when she was 14. "Acasa is my home, and Alin is my father", she says, and takes Alins hand. She lived for some years in a foster home, with an elderly man and his daughter. When the old man died and the daughter got her own family, Larisa had nowhere else to go and moved to Acasa. Her dream is to become a prosecutor or lawyer.








I leave Acasa with the impression of a very special institution, unique in it’s ability to combine professional, individual programs for each child with personal care, trust and relationships that hopefully can compensate for some of the losses, hardship and suffering these children have experienced. Alins information, the children’s own words, their hopes and their smiles gives me a lot of hope on their behalf. Sadly, however, only two centres like this exists in the whole city of Bucharest.


It’s early night and dark when we leave Acasa. Vişinel has invited me to stay at his house for the night and have dinner with him, his brother Virgil (who has become and works as psychologist) and his boyfriend Bogdan. We share a lovely meal, baced, stuffed pepper from Bogdans mother and some good wine. A better host and better company is hard to find.





Next Up (in due time): "Istanbul - An Other Turkey"

Wednesday, 1 November 2017

Monastery Turnu, Romania




This time I will share a small travel story, mostly because it is one of many examples of random (or not?) meetings with friendliness and hospitality I have experienced both during my “2017 Crossing Europe tour”, and at other destinations around the world.
After saying goodbye to Paul and Bianca in Minis, I drive east via Sibiu and turn south on the E81 into a narrow valley through the Carphatian mountains. I follow the river Olt, in direction Râmnica Vâlcea, on the other side of the mountains. The landscape is beautiful, though I hardly get a chance to enjoy it while I´m driving, since the traffic is too heavy, mostly big trucks paying no attention at all to a little camper pickup like mine. Quite stresses from feeling squeezed between the big trailers and my shoulders aching, I leave the main road for an early lunch break. A small road and a bridge along a dam takes me over the river Olt.  I proceed along the riverbanks on a road barely wide enough for two cars to pass. I drive aside and stop at a crossroad, near by an old railway line and a station, which seems abandoned by travellers a long time ago. 




From the station I get a glimpse of a distant church tower and some nice looking buildings closer to the mountains, behind a field of fruit trees, and a park. Returning to my car at the crossroad, I discover a sign saying “Mânâstirea Turnu” pointing towards the buildings I’ve seen from the station. Following my impulse and curiosity I leave the car and take a walk towards the monastery.

Monday, 23 October 2017

Crossing Europe 2017 - Romania



The "New" Romania is not for all

Visiting Paul and Bianca's Family Project 

26 years have passed since I last visited Romania on a motorbike with my fourteen year old son Lars, on the back seat. In 1991, two years after the Romanian revolution, not so much had changed in most people's daily lives (or for the average traveller) compared to the pre-revolution Romania. Today, 26 years later, it is very different.

EU-money is coming in millions, cities are being refurbished, roads and other infrastructure improved and foreign investments have increased significantly especially over the last two - three years. In the outskirts of towns and villages enormous new factories are popping up side by side with the ruins of the rusty industry buildings from the past. According to the Financial Times, Romania is now the fastest growing economy among the countries in central-east Europe with GDP reaching 5.9% in quarter one 2017. Enough numbers, but some just to give you the big picture since it tells a lot about the possibilities for change, depending on national, political priorities. My mind though, is still fixed on the stories in Norwegian and international news media from the last decades about striking poverty, mentally ill and handicapped people in over crowded, sub-standard institutions and street children living underground and in the sewage system in Bucharest. But what about  the situation today?



Back in 2017 I am crossing the border to Romania from the north-west, from Hungary in direction Arad and eastern Transylvania, which historically is the northern, central part of the country. Transylvania is bound on the east and south by its natural borders, the Carpathian mountains and westward to the Apusenis. Transylvania is known for the beautiful scenery of the Carpathian landscape and its rich history. It also has major cities such as Sibiu and Brașov.

Heading towards my first Romanian destination, a small village by the name Minis, at the foot of the Transylvania Highlands, I am driving through the city of Arad and numerous villages, since I am avoiding the motorways. The landscape is beautiful, with wide maize fields, rolling grassland and autumn-yellow deciduous forests. The roads are far better than I expected and the buildings and family houses I can see from the road for the most part have fresh paint and well kept gardens. Every little village seems to have at least one church, properly cared for and some with striking beautiful decorations.



Turning north from the main road I am reaching Minis in late afternoon. I chose to visit Minis a little by a coincidence. I was searching for campsites on the Internet when I discovered that little Minis had one. As it turned out the couple running the campsite were also organising a local project to help some of the poor families from the villages near by, in their struggle to cope with poverty and to change their lives for the better. This time in Romania I am searching for significant positive changes, and how the "New" Romania has reached the less privileged part of the population. I will limit the facts and figures in this blog and let some real people, like Paul and Bianca and "their" families do the talking instead. 

Entering the small camping ground I am welcomed by a smiling, friendly Bianca (32) ensuring me that the camping is open and I am more than welcome to stay as long as I like. Paul (39) is busy preparing his self-made water-based heating system for the house (which he also has built by himself) for the coming winter, but he will join me in few moments, Bianca says. 


I install myself and my camper in the in the small, cosy, garden like camping ground. Paul comes with a beer and since I´m the only guest he´s got plenty of time to talk. After introducing myself as a Norwegian we have of course to finish and clarify the stories about the Norwegian "Barnevernet" (Child Protection Services) rumoured in Romania to "steel" children from Romanian families in Norway without a good reason. We manage to agree on the big picture about when public authorities needs to intervene to the best of the child welfare an security, so we can move on to Romania.

Paul tells me that he and Bianca has been working with the campsite and their family project for the last four years. They have in fact "inherited" the project from Paul's father and mother who started it back in 1998, together with the council of Arad County and the "Trandafir Din Saron Foundation" . For several years the project was supporting a children's home in Fantanele in Arad County, material and financial assistance for the street children, poor families, old people's homes and schools, hospitals and others. They also held Work Camps with many activities to repair buildings or the houses of poor families, schools and other social objectives.

After Paul and Bianca took the responsibility for the family project they have changed the strategies and priorities in many ways. Even though a lot of families and individuals had been helped in the past, many became dependant on public services, free housing, clothes and money and didn´t learn to help themselves, Paul explains. At the time they started, 50 families were receiving different kind of support. But for some of the families, money were spent for nothing. They got clothes, but never washed them and just threw them away when they couldn´t be used anymore. Some of the men drunk up all the money, they did not support their children and did not let the children go to school. 20 families had to leave the project because they were not motivated or able do their part of the job to learn how to care for themselves in the way they could. 15 families are now self-reliant and 15 families are still in the project making progress day by day, even tough the progress varies among the families. "I know all the families now, and what they are capable of", Paul says. "We have to make a deal with them, and a plan where we agree on the terms and conditions for our support, what they are capable of and what they have to do themselves. We cannot help them forever, and we must focus on their recourse and how they can get a new start and learn how sped money in the right way and support themselves". Term number one for getting support from the project is that the children must go to school". They must also do what they can to find any kind of casual or permanent job or making an income from growing crops, keeping animals, offer transportation services with a horse cart (many families have a horse).

The support is tailored for each family depending on their needs and recourses. "We see that everything in the family situation is linked", Paul says. "A place to live, sleep, eat and be secure is fundamental. Some get help to buy animals, some to build a new house and some money to cover school expenses for the children. Primary schools are free, but they have to pay for clothes, books, food and all except for the teacher. Normally it costs around 250 Euro for a child to start in school. These expenses are a huge burden for families who have little or no money at all."

Paul explains that the rural areas in the country and villages far from the main roads are lagging largely behind in the development process. Many places are going from bad to worse. While one village with a factory establishment nearby get a welfare boom through new job opportunities, many small villages, based partly on exchange economy and partly on selling crops from a small piece of farmland, eggs or meat on local markets, are losing opportunities since the old economic system doesn’t work anymore. EU regulations, and supermarket chains are changing the market terms and many villagers are left with noting, not even a slight hope for a better future. No wonder some give up. Knowing that more than 50% of the Romanian population lives in small villages in rural areas, it's obvious that challenges fighting poverty are enormous.


The next morning Paul takes me to see some of the families supported by the project. We drive trough villages and open farmland with scattered sheds, houses and small farms. In the middle of "nowhere" we turn from the main road onto a gravel road and a little later we park in the courtyard of a small farm. We are met by Merca (54), a nice friendly, lady reminding me more of a Norwegian School teacher than a poor farmers wife (excuse my prejudice from seeing too much poverty around the world). 


Merca says her husband Coste (57) are not at home and has gone to help his brother and his family. Coste lost his arm in a work accident 20 years ago and lost his job. Since then they have been depending on social support to survive and to care for their two children. They receive one hundred Euro pr. month from the local welfare office, not enough to survive, but the children are grown up and have their own family now and are doing OK. With support from the family project Merca and Coste are slightly improving their life.


Merca shows me around and tells me they moved to this piece of land seven years ago. They got some animals and built a small house with the support from the family project. The old house gives shelter from rain and snow but it is more like a shack than a real house. A German contributor to the family project has donated a prefabricated house they hope to finish soon. It will give them more space and be warmer in the winter. Now they´ve only got walls and roof in the new hose, but they need more help to get electricity, windows and a lot more. 



Paul adds that he has to struggle a lot to get a company to do the job finishing the house for a decent price, since it its far from the nearest town, and they have to pay for travel time and transportation, and not only for the construction work.

Merca and Costa grows some vegetables for themselves, but most of the farmland is for growing maize and crops to feed the animals. They have a horse for transportation, three pigs, 10 ducks an 10 hens and chicken. They used to have 30 chicken but the fox killed 20 of them one night before they could stop it.


Life is tough in many ways, but Merca says the most important thing in life is to keep her health. She hopes to live 20 more years to see her children and grandchildren make a good and happy life for themselves.

Paul makes some appointments with Merca about the new house, before we say farewell and we leave for our next family.

A few kilometre from Merca and Costes small farm we stop by a single house in an open field close to the road. Nobody seems to be at home, but the doors are open and Paul wants to show me the inside of the small house. It’s just one single room, with a small table, closets, two beds and a wood stove. Not much for a whole family.




The last family we go to see all are at home and busy working on their new house, which they are building with support from the family project. 


Cristi (40), Sofia (44) have been living with there with five children age 8 to 17 (two more children have moved out and got jobs) for several years in the old the old house. It only consists of a combined living room and bedroom and a kitchen. 



Cristi has only casual jobs, mostly in the woods, transporting firewood with his horses. The income he get from this work is far from sufficient to cover the expenses for food, clothes, school and for the house. Quite recently they got water in the house from a new well. The old one used to freeze in the winter. Temperatures can fall below -15C in this area, Paul has told me. Thanks to the family project and their own hard work (according to Paul) their situation is slowly improving. All the five children goes to school, and hopefully they will get a job when school is finished. Before we leave, Cristi wants to show me the stable and his horses. The horses are maybe the most important resource for the family to get some income. 



We leave the family and their building project, after taking a family picture outside their house. On the way back to the campsite my feelings are mixed. Paul and Bianca's efforts running their project and trying to give all the help they can to their 15 families, gives some hope. But how many families get a similar opportunity? I know there are lots of other projects in Romania run by local counsils, churches and Romanian and foreign NGOs. But either looking at statistics (there are 5 million jobless in Romania) or trying scale up the situation in the villages I have seen (in some distance from the main roads and the new factories) tells a story about poverty that seems to be bottomless. However, Paul and Bianca shows me that private engagement and projects like this do matter. Paul and Bianca are not professionals, but have been working as volunteers in different social activities since high school. Paul used to be a businessman, making good money, but that didn´t give him any meaning in life. Moving from Arad to Minis, running the camping and the family project has been a right choice for him and Bianca, so far.

If you want to read more about the families, the history and the funding of Paul and Bianca's family project, you can use this link: http://routeroemenie.nl/en/tds or the link on left column of the main blog-page. There you can also find ways to support Paul and Bianca and their families.